| First things first. Technical advice and much more were neverending from Pennock's Fiero Forum's own...theogre, RedGTFieroKCMO, and others responding to my initial thread on alternator problems. Gentlemen, THANK YOU! These notes and more are also being forwarded to theogre for inclusion/addition/editing/correcting in his cave. After all he's the brains behind this project. So why the web page...to save Cliff some space and bandwidth for other topics and to give a little back to all those in the forum who have helped me and who need help. |
| Okay, sportsfans here are the details of what it took to do a conversion from an old 94 amp SI alternator on my 1986.5 GT to a 105 Amp CS-series. Please keep in mind one thing. I have NOT worked on, nor have I been under the hood of a 2.5L Duke. This will likely mean some changes from year to year especially an '88, but you guys already have one! By reading further you accept ANY and ALL risks of ANY and ALL nature should you attempt to replicate my efforts. Here we go. |
| Rather than give all the details for why and how I came to this project...let's just say I had a bad alternator and it was time for an upgrade. |
| All images are sized down to fit within the page neatly. Just click on a picture to enlarge...I mean really enlarge. |
First, things you will need to get started:
1. Tools:
- Jack stands
- FLoor jack
- Sockets: 8, 10, 11, 13, 15 and 18mm
- Pry bar
- Wire cutters and pliers
- Soldering iron
- Heat gun or lighter for tubing
2. Parts:
3. Safety Items:
- Safety Goggles
- Wheel Chocks
- Patience!
- Patience!
- Patience! Get the idea!?
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| To start with disconnect the negative battery cable (8mm) AND negative ground cable (10mm)! Disconnect the connector and battery cable (11mm) from the rear of the alternator. Loosen the lug nuts on the right rear wheel (just loosen them). Chock the front wheels in front and behind and set parking brake. Check jack points on rear of cradle and center floor jack (of course if you have another method...go for it...the thing is you want the rear suspension fully extended). Lift rear of vehicle and place jack stands. |
| Once car is up on stands and secure, finish removing the right rear wheel. Disconnect/remove the wheel well curtain from around the toe control arm, drive shaft, and rear brake lines. You will need the space...believe me! Depending on any modifications you have made or the current routing of your brake lines you will need to remove the bolt holding the brake line connector (10mm) and the support arm (10mm) inside the wheel well (see picture). |
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| GENTLY, move the connector toward the engine and upward to gain clearance. Be very careful or you could break, crimp, or otherwise ruin one or more brake lines. IF you can avoid this step do so. Otherwise proceed carefully. Once the conversion is complete THOROUGHLY inspect and monitor these connections for ANY sign of leakage or damage (a sinking brake pedal needs to be found in the driveway...). |
| Remove the bolts mounting the alternator in its bracket starting with the bottom, adjusting bolt (13mm) and then the pivot bolt (15mm). Then remove the mounting bracket itself (13mm or 15mm x 3, and 1 @ 18mm on bottom). Then feed the alternator as best you can through the exit area you've cleared in front of the axle (see picture). Don't try to pull it through behind the axle...toe control arm is in the way. |
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